Posted on April 10, 2007 in tools by AbeNo Comments »

use these calculators when buying dirt, fertilizer, or other products that are sold based on square footage.

planting bed area calculator

Posted on April 5, 2007 in tips by AbeNo Comments »

Questions to ask when choosing landscape irrigation/sprinkling system contractor.

How deep will the pipes be laid under the ground?

This is VERY important, and will depend on where you live. But generally in Michigan or any area that freezes or has a full winter season, 12 inches should be the standard. This may vary from 8-12, but should never be less than 8 inches. Many contractors may come in with lower bids and try to skimp on the depth of your system. Your system may work fine for a few years, but the excessive freeze wear on the system will cause it to break down quicker.

What brand of products do you use?

Is it a brand you have heard of? If not, call some hardware or home improvement stores and ask if they carry the product and if they would recommend it. If you cannot find a local retailer that stocks that brand, you may not want to have that product used because it may be difficult to find replacement parts fast, and retailers tend to carry bigger higher quality brands.

Will I get a detailed layout map?

You should find out if you will receive a detailed layout of where all the water lines and sprinkling heads are located. This will be very valuable when planning out other landscape features or later on if you need to troubleshoot the system.

How much money do you need down to start?

Never pay in full before the job is started, a reasonable deposit shouldn’t exceed 50% of the project quote. Be sure and use a check or credit card (if accepted). Try also to get written receipt from the deposit. A cashed check can serve as a backup receipt also.

What is the time line?

When will you start, and when will you finish. This is also extremely important. With most items mentioned here, get this written into your final quote/contract. If they need a deposit, I would only give a token up front and then give the full deposit once any real work has started.

Ask for references

Be sure and ask for detailed references of work they have done in the past that is similar to your project. If you can, talk to a few, and try to drive past some of the previous customers and view the work for yourself.

Posted on March 25, 2007 in tips by AbeNo Comments »

How to build a waterfall.

Visit some natural waterfalls or at least look at photos. Observe the water, and look at the way in which it flows over the rocks and terrain naturally.

The design of your falls will depend on the layout of your terrain, pump and pipe size, length of water flow from pump to falls, and pond size. It’s important to keep the elements of your water feature in scale. If you have a small pond, have an appropriate sized falls and vice-versa.

roses
One of the most common mistakes results from the desire for a tall waterfall at a level building site. Large amounts of soil are imported to build the falls up to a three or four foot height. Yes, you will achieve a dramatic waterfall, but the total effect will not look natural. Try not to let any part be overly dominate. A falls of just two feet will produce a very satisfactory effect both visually and audibly.

On a level site, with an “average” size pond of say 11 by 16 feet, the amount of soil needed to surround the biological filter and create the berm is just about equal to the amount of soil excavated from the pond, so it works out quite well. To further enhance or enlarge the berm, you may want to import a little more soil, large boulders or other features.

Be sure to use a wide liner under the falls and/or stream, this will allow for twists and turns in the course of the water and also contain splashing. A ten foot wide liner is recommended. Under-layment under the falls and stream liners is usually not required.

When your excavation is complete for the falls, and the liner is in place. Then begin to add your stone. This is the fun part, so try out several combinations and visualize how the water will flow.

When satisfied with your arrangement, use black waterfall foam to direct the water over the stone instead of under it. That is, stone that is directly in contact with the liner should sit on a bed of foam so the water goes around or over the stone instead of underneath it. Caution – the foam expands greatly…don’t use too much!

Building a waterfall can be extremely satisfying. Though you should give some time to preliminary research, you’ll learn most by actually building your water feature.

Posted on March 5, 2007 in tips by AbeNo Comments »

Planting a rose garden.

A good garden loam with organic matter is important when planting roses. It should contain some peat moss, leaf mold, compost, rotted or commercial manure, and the bed should be prepared as far ahead of planting as possible to allow for the soil to settle. GreatGrass

roses
Autumn is the best time for planting out roses, but you can also plant in spring. When they arrive from the nursery, plant at once. If they have dried en route, soak the roots and put the tops in a bucket of water before planting. Trim back any roots that are weak, long or broken. Dig a hole that is wide enough to allow the roots to spread without crowding.

The rose is properly placed when the bud (the point where the top joins the roots) is just under the ground surface. Space hybrid teas about 18 inches apart in any direction. Prune the branches 6 to 10 inches from the soil.

roses
To grow good roses it is necessary to cultivate, to prune and to spray. If you have a well-cultivated bed you need not worry about watering. But if you start to water in hot weather, you must keep it up, soaking the roots thoroughly about once a week. Spraying every 10 days will guard against diseases and insects that attack roses. Nicotine sulphate wipes out the green lice; arsenate of lead is used against chewing insects; or sulphur and arsenate of lead may be used in a dust, as may DDT dust.

Winterize your roses by mounding sod around them after the first frost, or mulch with straw and evergreens. In colder parts of the country, (like Michigan) remove the supports from the climbing roses and place the canes on the ground, peg them, and cover with soil mounds.

In spring, cut back your roses to within 6 inches of the ground. Lop off all but three to five canes on hybrid teas. This pruning will give you strong plants. When your plants grow out from spring pruning, you will have to disbud, cutting off all the buds except the top ones on the cane. This is the way to grow large blossoms.

Remember to enjoy your roses! Cut some nice stems from time to time and place them in a vase inside your home. Share them with friends and neighbors. After all, what good is growing a beautiful plant if you cannot enjoy it and share it.

Posted on February 12, 2007 in info by AbeNo Comments »

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