Posted on May 31, 2009 in plants by AbeNo Comments »

What is a Topsy Turvey? The Topsy Turvey is an upside down tomato planter. It is a cylindrical bag that has a small hole in the bottom with a foam gasket to hold in the tomato.

Insert the tomato plant Inserting foam and tomato plant tomato plant is in the hole

The picture below shows what it will look like from the bottom once you have the tomato plant installed in the Topsy Turvey planter. The other picture shows a view from the top, here you can see the roots sticking up into the planter.

Topsy Turvey with tomato plant installed Topsy Turvey with plant from the top.

Next step is to fill the planter with potting soil. This can be a little tricky because you have to be careful not to crush the tomato plant into the ground. So be aware of you are holding the planter while you fill it.

Here you can see our finished result. 4 Topsy Turvey planters on a custom stand. The stand consists of 3 “4 x 8″ posts, and 2 Simpson ties. Total cost was about $30 for the stand. Each planter was $10 each. We used a 2 cubic feet bag of topsoil and it filled all 4 planters just perfectly, the potting soil was probably about $10.

Topsy Turvey Stand for 4 planters.

We will be taking pictures and tracking the progress of these tomato plants.

Posted on May 6, 2009 in info by AbeNo Comments »

Watch this cool time lapse video of a retaining wall being rebuilt.

Posted on February 8, 2008 in tips by AbeNo Comments »

Winter Landscape

Winter is a great time to admire your landscape, without the worry of upkeep. Simply look out and enjoy the look of the snow blankets covering

all your trees, shrubs, and bushes. No need to worry about cutting grass or trimming trees now. Just sit back with a cup of coffee or hot choco

late and enjoy the view from inside. See you in the spring! :)

Posted on June 5, 2007 in tips by Abe1 Comment »

Annuals in your garden landscape.

An basic definition of an annual is any plant which must be replaced each year and which flowers only once in its life. Annuals generally are grown from seeds. The main advantage of annuals over perennials is their low cost. Hundreds of plants can be grown from a single packet of seeds.

Annuals are also very decorative, and provide a great source of flowers for cutting. Their season of bloom is relatively long, as well. The disadvantage is the late date at which they bloom. If annuals are used alone in a bed or border, a good part of the season will pass with little to show in the way of color.

Annuals can also of used as filler between shrubs. This permits the shrub to grow, yet prevents too stark an appearance. The hardier flowers, such as larkspur, poppies and cornflowers, can be planted in late fall. The ground preparation must be just as careful as for spring planting.

annuals
Planting in fall is advantageous since it permits the flowers to get an early start the following spring. Certain other hardy annuals can be planted early in spring as soon as the ground is workable. It is a good idea to start some of the less hardy annuals in seed pots, or in coldframes, as early as March. Otherwise, these plants cannot be set out until all danger of frost is gone. Outdoor planting of annuals in the spring follows thorough soil preparation.

Once the seedbed has been prepared with all lumps removed, it must be carefully pulverized with a rake prior to planting. You can calculate the area of the seedbed with a landscape calculator. The seeds are sown broadcast in the patch selected, and then are just lightly covered with soil. The soil may be gently tamped after the covering is completed. The patch should be identified with a stake and some sort of sign. Flower seeds are best planted near the surface of the soil.

Sow the seeds no more than 1 inch deep. The seeds of larger plants which have a strong growth, such as sunflowers, can be planted in hills spaced from 2 to 4 feet apart. Often, annuals are planted in rows. This method is used when a cutting garden is being grown. To do this, dig a shallow trench not more than 1 inch deep with a trowel, or your fingers, and then place the seed in the trench.

Sow more seed than appears necessary, and then trim out after the plants appear above ground. Thinning is required, in any event, for a good crop of annuals, if only to insure sufficient room for each plant. Transplanting is a considerable shock in the life of a plant, and unless it is carefully done, the plant will die.

All the soil in the frame or pot should be used when transplanting. Transplanting should be done on a cloudy, damp day, if possible. If the soil is dry, it should be watered before transplanting, and then thoroughly after the plants are in the ground. If the day is sunny, some sort of shade should be provided for the newly transferred plants. As soon as the plants are established, these protective coverings can be removed.

Grand Haven Landscape

Posted on May 15, 2007 in tips by AbeNo Comments »

Starting a home vegetable garden.

roses The garden should be located close to your home and away from trees. The main reason is the easier it is to see and to tend, the better off your garden will be. Also, vegetables grown near trees cannot get full sunshine; sometimes, the tree roots will use water and fertilizer meant for the plants.

The soil should be well drained. A sandy loam with a clay subsoil is best. Heavy clay soils may be made quite suitable by adding lots of stable manure or compost, or by turning under cover crops, preferably legumes such as vetch, clover soybeans.

Growth Requirements.

  1. Warmth
  2. Moisture
  3. Oxygen

Planning is very important to get the most out of your vegetable garden. Keep a record of wheather you had too much or too little of certain vegetables at any time during the season for a continuous supply. This will help you to plan better for the next year.

Things to consider when planting.

  1. How much of each vegetable to grow to supply your needs.
  2. Which varieties are best to plant.
  3. When to plant for continuous growth and supply.
Posted on April 10, 2007 in tools by AbeNo Comments »

use these calculators when buying dirt, fertilizer, or other products that are sold based on square footage.

planting bed area calculator

Posted on April 5, 2007 in tips by AbeNo Comments »

Questions to ask when choosing landscape irrigation/sprinkling system contractor.

How deep will the pipes be laid under the ground?

This is VERY important, and will depend on where you live. But generally in Michigan or any area that freezes or has a full winter season, 12 inches should be the standard. This may vary from 8-12, but should never be less than 8 inches. Many contractors may come in with lower bids and try to skimp on the depth of your system. Your system may work fine for a few years, but the excessive freeze wear on the system will cause it to break down quicker.

What brand of products do you use?

Is it a brand you have heard of? If not, call some hardware or home improvement stores and ask if they carry the product and if they would recommend it. If you cannot find a local retailer that stocks that brand, you may not want to have that product used because it may be difficult to find replacement parts fast, and retailers tend to carry bigger higher quality brands.

Will I get a detailed layout map?

You should find out if you will receive a detailed layout of where all the water lines and sprinkling heads are located. This will be very valuable when planning out other landscape features or later on if you need to troubleshoot the system.

How much money do you need down to start?

Never pay in full before the job is started, a reasonable deposit shouldn’t exceed 50% of the project quote. Be sure and use a check or credit card (if accepted). Try also to get written receipt from the deposit. A cashed check can serve as a backup receipt also.

What is the time line?

When will you start, and when will you finish. This is also extremely important. With most items mentioned here, get this written into your final quote/contract. If they need a deposit, I would only give a token up front and then give the full deposit once any real work has started.

Ask for references

Be sure and ask for detailed references of work they have done in the past that is similar to your project. If you can, talk to a few, and try to drive past some of the previous customers and view the work for yourself.

Posted on March 25, 2007 in tips by AbeNo Comments »

How to build a waterfall.

Visit some natural waterfalls or at least look at photos. Observe the water, and look at the way in which it flows over the rocks and terrain naturally.

The design of your falls will depend on the layout of your terrain, pump and pipe size, length of water flow from pump to falls, and pond size. It’s important to keep the elements of your water feature in scale. If you have a small pond, have an appropriate sized falls and vice-versa.

roses
One of the most common mistakes results from the desire for a tall waterfall at a level building site. Large amounts of soil are imported to build the falls up to a three or four foot height. Yes, you will achieve a dramatic waterfall, but the total effect will not look natural. Try not to let any part be overly dominate. A falls of just two feet will produce a very satisfactory effect both visually and audibly.

On a level site, with an “average” size pond of say 11 by 16 feet, the amount of soil needed to surround the biological filter and create the berm is just about equal to the amount of soil excavated from the pond, so it works out quite well. To further enhance or enlarge the berm, you may want to import a little more soil, large boulders or other features.

Be sure to use a wide liner under the falls and/or stream, this will allow for twists and turns in the course of the water and also contain splashing. A ten foot wide liner is recommended. Under-layment under the falls and stream liners is usually not required.

When your excavation is complete for the falls, and the liner is in place. Then begin to add your stone. This is the fun part, so try out several combinations and visualize how the water will flow.

When satisfied with your arrangement, use black waterfall foam to direct the water over the stone instead of under it. That is, stone that is directly in contact with the liner should sit on a bed of foam so the water goes around or over the stone instead of underneath it. Caution - the foam expands greatly…don’t use too much!

Building a waterfall can be extremely satisfying. Though you should give some time to preliminary research, you’ll learn most by actually building your water feature.

Posted on March 5, 2007 in tips by AbeNo Comments »

Planting a rose garden.

A good garden loam with organic matter is important when planting roses. It should contain some peat moss, leaf mold, compost, rotted or commercial manure, and the bed should be prepared as far ahead of planting as possible to allow for the soil to settle. GreatGrass

roses
Autumn is the best time for planting out roses, but you can also plant in spring. When they arrive from the nursery, plant at once. If they have dried en route, soak the roots and put the tops in a bucket of water before planting. Trim back any roots that are weak, long or broken. Dig a hole that is wide enough to allow the roots to spread without crowding.

The rose is properly placed when the bud (the point where the top joins the roots) is just under the ground surface. Space hybrid teas about 18 inches apart in any direction. Prune the branches 6 to 10 inches from the soil.

roses
To grow good roses it is necessary to cultivate, to prune and to spray. If you have a well-cultivated bed you need not worry about watering. But if you start to water in hot weather, you must keep it up, soaking the roots thoroughly about once a week. Spraying every 10 days will guard against diseases and insects that attack roses. Nicotine sulphate wipes out the green lice; arsenate of lead is used against chewing insects; or sulphur and arsenate of lead may be used in a dust, as may DDT dust.

Winterize your roses by mounding sod around them after the first frost, or mulch with straw and evergreens. In colder parts of the country, (like Michigan) remove the supports from the climbing roses and place the canes on the ground, peg them, and cover with soil mounds.

In spring, cut back your roses to within 6 inches of the ground. Lop off all but three to five canes on hybrid teas. This pruning will give you strong plants. When your plants grow out from spring pruning, you will have to disbud, cutting off all the buds except the top ones on the cane. This is the way to grow large blossoms.

Remember to enjoy your roses! Cut some nice stems from time to time and place them in a vase inside your home. Share them with friends and neighbors. After all, what good is growing a beautiful plant if you cannot enjoy it and share it.

Posted on February 12, 2007 in info by AbeNo Comments »

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